Weekly link summary: July 31, 2020

By | July 31, 2020

♥ Since I don't have a cable, I had to wait to see The last Dance on Netflix – weeks after everyone else. As someone who is only occasionally interested in men's basketball, I really enjoyed the series as the 90s Chicago Bulls were the last NBA team I seriously followed. Is it a balanced documentary to know that? Michael Jordan's production company partially financed the project? Probably not, but it's entertaining, sometimes even exciting.

Does Dior catch up with Chanel? (The business of fashion): “Dior's sales and profitability have increased in recent years due to increasing demand for canvas bags, saddlebags and high-top sneakers, and the brand is determined to stay in the spotlight. Dior's combined sale of fashion and beauty products is estimated to have increased 24 percent (in 2019) to 6.6 billion euros ($ 7.54 billion) … Chanel's sales increased 13 percent on a comparable basis to 12.3 Billions of dollars in 2019 … Dior continued to gain Chanel due to its greater willingness to sell online. While Dior has expanded e-commerce in recent years, selling its $ 4,500 Lady Dior wallets and $ 860 t-shirts through its website and even on social platforms like China's WeChat, Chanel still endures selling his handbags or fashion online. "

(An article that I would recommend reading in full.) The stranded babies of the coronavirus disaster (The New Yorker): “When the virus spread and the trip was frozen, parents around the world were suddenly thousands of kilometers away from newborns who were actually their biological children. Commercial surrogacy is becoming increasingly popular thanks to a number of converging factors: advances in reproductive technology, a wave of restrictive adoption laws, the rise in homosexual rights, and the fact that women in developed countries wait longer before having children, which causes more problems with the Fertility. But it is also illegal in most parts of the world, including almost all of Europe. Opponents of the practice argue that it makes surrogate motherhood vulnerable to exploitation, especially when they are poor, and creates risks for the children. Every year thousands of prospective parents travel abroad to a handful of countries where surrogacy is legal. One of the biggest goals is the United States, which has state-of-the-art reproductive technology and the most liberal laws: both same-sex couples and unmarried people can have children through a surrogate mother. But the price is unattainable for many people, and in the past ten years, Ukraine has proven to be a cheaper alternative. Ukrainian surrogate mothers give birth to several thousand babies each year, most of whom have foreign parents. The country has around fifty reproductive clinics and numerous agencies that act as middlemen, bringing together couples with egg donors and surrogacy. COVID-19 threw this system into chaos. There are no official numbers on how many babies have been stranded around the world. At least two hundred babies were stuck in the United States and cared for by an improvised network of surrogate mothers, relatives, nurses, and compassionate Samaritans. "

Elon Musk, who blows up in domestic bliss (The New York Times): “The view of Silicon Valley has grown darker in recent years when the Americans realized that the lords of the cloud, who were supposed to improve our lives, carelessly collected our data and allowed themselves to be disinformation factories. Mr. Musk's colleagues may ridicule him for his grandiosity and say that his worldview of good in the fight against evil is just a smart business position to attract the best people. And he's certainly a grand master in marketing and self-promotion. But he really wants to save the world and make products that are fun. "

What to do after the founder leaves? (The business of fashion): "… in 2019 there was a record number of CEOs leaving US companies with over 1,600 exits … Often these numbers were not just managing directors, but also their primary fundraiser, chief creative officer and chief brand ambassador. Their successors often have to build almost from scratch the business structures that are required to manage day-to-day operations in a large, fast-growing company. At the same time, they have to keep the magic that got the business there in the first place. A company can make or break how these tasks are done. "

How fishing came into fashion (literally) (The Wall Street Journal): “Clothing on the subject of fishing has been arriving in fashion collections and stores at a steady pace in recent years. The fishing vest packed in pockets … remains the hippest piece of fishing equipment, but the fish flow goes beyond these staple foods … Fishing is just the latest outdoor activity that is broken down due to its fashion potential … The functional nature of this clothing can indeed serve the city dwellers well . A nine pocket vest means you will never be without a place to park whatever you need to wear. A jacket that you could theoretically swim in can protect you from a thunderstorm in the city. and a hat that distracts the sun for five hours while commanding the creek does the same when you walk through the city. "

Racism and classicism of fashion have finally gone out of fashion (The Atlantic): "… The stories of toxicity in fashion are not new … The worship of white and wealth is not only a side effect of the global fashion business, but is central to its vision and embedded in its practices, from hiring to marketing things. Luxury fashion builds on the emotional framework of human aspiration – what happens to the industry when everyone is fed up with worshiping rich whites? This tight control over the most powerful and influential brands in fashion makes it difficult for people outside of the well-educated white elite to do so, let alone how they understand luxury. Brands and media companies could commit to working with models from different backgrounds, or involve more black celebrities in their advertising campaigns or style reporting. But internally there are small changes. "

The end of modernity (The economist): “Modern is like fashion a permanent idea, which disguises itself as forever young. History suggests that when the emergency goes back and the emergence begins, the taste changes significantly. Shock devastates the old taste by destroying the old world and building a new modernity out of the rubble. ”

Hotels Nix Mints and breakfast buffets. Hand disinfectant, someone? (The New York Times): “Hotel occupancy in the US was destroyed by the pandemic and dropped to a low of 22 percent in April. Travelers are slowly returning, but the rapidly increasing number of coronavirus cases in many states is clouding the short-term future of the industry. In the meantime, hotels are doing everything they can to attract travelers and address their concerns. The first priority is to convey a feeling of security. Hotels also rethink what guests appreciate most. Before the pandemic, hotel beds had started to resemble decorative pillow forts, with bed scarves and duvets. The beds have now been reduced to the essentials that can be washed between each guest. "

Everyone is now a day trader (The Wall Street Journal): At E * Trade Financial Corp. Only in March did investors open around 260,500 private customer accounts, more than in any other year. The newer rival Robinhood Markets Inc., maker of a hugely popular trading app, had a record three million new accounts in the first quarter. Since professional sports were largely held out of breaks and group meetings, users flocked to day trading apps to heal isolation and healing boredom through lockdown … Trading with individual investors this year more than doubled the usual retail activity … Individuals now do a fifth of all stock market activity and a quarter during the busiest of meetings. "

♥ New in my podcast playlist: fail (The first season is about WeWork). So far excellent podcast if you want Beginning, be sure to listen to foundering.

How a bunch of lava lamps protects us from hackers (WIRED): "Every time you log on to a website, you are assigned a unique identification number. It should be random, because if hackers can predict the number, they will pretend to be you. Computers that rely on human-coded patterns can't create real randomness – but no one can predict the hypnotic swirls of oil, water, and wax. Cloudflare films the lamps around the clock and uses the ever-changing arrangement of pixels to create a high-performance cryptographic key. "

Hearst employees say the magazine's boss has led a toxic culture (The New York Times): "… Hearst magazine head Troy Young has filed complaints from people who said he made lewd, sexist statements at work … Hearst employees questioned management at a time when employees of the more glamorous rival Condé Nast did this right away. There have also been employee revolts at other media organizations, including The Times, The Philadelphia Inquirer, The Wall Street Journal, and Refinery29. "

(Excellent piece; I would suggest reading it in full.) I went to Disney World (The Atlantic): "What is an amusement park where visible smiles are forbidden and laughs and screams of joy are muffled to the point of inaudibility? If you think it's like watching sitcoms without a salmon trail, then you don't fully appreciate the inhumanity of this situation, the oddness of being in a place that exists to bring joy – with no readable emotions. Psychologist Paul Bloom has found that the pandemic is different from other disasters because our suffering and collective response are lonely. To be a hero during the flash, you pulled neighbors out of the rubble. They felt sorry for friends and personally encouraged them to buck. To be a pandemic hero, stay at home and watch Project Runway in your underpants. In Disney World, more than anywhere else, she is haunted by this strange and psychologically exhausting fact about the pandemic that it steals our shared emotional space. It may still be the happiest place on earth, but you can't tell when you look at someone. "

Can anything shake consumer addiction to fast fashion? (The business of fashion): "… The pandemic is likely to deepen the power of affordable fashion. The coronavirus crisis has already plunged the US into recession and brought unemployment to historic highs. Financial difficulties are likely to increase the weight that consumers attach to price, not environmental and social considerations, especially when it comes to well-known brands with seductive newsletters, discounts, and easily accessible online storefronts. Even before the pandemic, consumers' alleged interest in sustainability had a limited impact on their actual spending. Although the price still seems to outperform most other considerations for many consumers, big brands see a growing opportunity in marketing sustainable fashion. Capsule collections with organic cotton, carbon offsetting and textile recycling have become joint initiatives. Experiments on resale, fabric innovation, and automation suggest that efforts must be made to stay relevant and on the right side of consumer sentiment. "

Amateur J.C. Penney Traders ask the judge to save them from being wiped out (Bloomberg): “Speculations from amateurs are nothing new, but for the first time experts can remember that investors buy stocks of even bankrupt companies. Hertz Global Holdings Inc., the Whiting Petroleum Corp. and J.C. Penney has seen its stock prices rise in recent sessions, even though they were in Chapter 11. "

We'll wear masks for a while. Why not make them beautiful? (The New York Times): "… Companies and designers have flooded the market with alternatives to the usual disposable surgical masks … Inventors came up with masks with motorized air cleaners, Bluetooth speakers and even disinfectants that kill germs by heating the face covering to over 200 degrees … Patterned in boutiques Masks appear on mannequins that are exquisitely combined with designer clothes. "

♥ Recently ordered: DAE daily shampoo, Shiseido Future Solution LX total protection cream broad spectrum SPF 20 sun protection, Fresh soy facial cleanser, and CAMI NYC Romy Charmeuse silk blend bodysuit with lace trim (50% discount!).

Have a nice Weekend!

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